History of HMI

	Origin & Growth
	Objective
	Founders
	Our Luminous Members
	Organisation, Functions and Duties
	Milestones
	Important Expeditions
	Previous Principals of HMI

ORIGIN & GROWTH

“The Institute trains young men not only to climb Himalayan peaks, but also create in them an urge to climb peaks of human endeavor. The Himalayas from time immemorial had attracted people and inspired them to discover nature's bountiful gifts found there and influenced Indian minds as evident from old scriptures, books and epics of the mythology of India”

- Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru.
Tenzing Norgay’s ascent of Mount Everest (8848M / 29,028ft.) along with Edmund Hillary, in 1953 provided the desired impetus to mountaineering as an organized sport in India, Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru then Prime minister and a visionary, wanted to channelize the abundant energy of the youth of the nation into a constructive field of mountaineering and hence planned to open a Mountaineering Institute.

The Himalayan Mountaineering Institute (HMI) was founded in Darjeeling on 4th November 1954 by none other than but Pandit Nehru himself. Within no time HMI became a renowned mountaineering Institute in the world. Being the home town of Tenzing Norgay and one of the most beautiful place in Himalayas, Darjeeling was selected as most appropriate place for the Institute.

In this manner Late Pandit Nehru ignited the spark of a new spirit for young Indians. The spark has already developed into a dazzling torch, lighting the path for those who accept the challenge of the Mountains and aspire to climb high. Initially the Institute was started at Roy Villa (Sister Nevedita’s House) on Lebong Cart Road and was then shifted to its present location on the Western Spur of Birch Hill in 1958. HMI has become an important centre of tourist attraction. It commands a magnificent view of 8589M high Kangchenjunga, the third highest peak in the World. In more than 50 years of existence, the institute has trained more than 25,000 students including around 1100 from various foreign countries. A certificate from HMI is the prize possession of a trainee which is recognized all over the world.

Objective

The objective of the Institute is to encourage and promote the science and art of Mountaineering amongst its members and students. It aims to train the enterprising members of the community, who in turn develop mountaineering activities in the Himalayas as a sport or in pursuit of scientific research related projects.

Our luminaries

Tenzing Norgay Sherpa, The Tiger of the Snow A climber of very long standing, Tenzing Norgay planted the Indian flag on Everest in 1953, when with the successful British expedition led by John Hunt, he shared with Edmund Hillary the honour of being the First to reach the world’s highest peak. Originally hailing from the Solo Khumbu area of Nepal, Tenzing settled down in Darjeeling several decades ago. After working as an high altitude Sherpa, Tenzing became the Sirdar of the Sherpas wherein he exercised full control and authority over the seasoned Sherpas. In the course of his close association with Himalayan expeditions, he has been with Everest expeditions alone as many as seven times.

The following is a brief record of Tenzing’s well- known climbing exploits :
1935 – Accompanied Eric Shiption’s reconnaissance party to Everest.
1936 – Wenywith huge Ruttledge’s expedition to Everest and reached the North Col.
1938 – Accompanied H.W. Tilman’s expedition to Everest and reached camp vi ( 8322m/27,330 ft).
1939 – Went with a party to Tirchimir in the Hindu- Kush range and reached 7012m/23,000ft.
1946 – Carried out exploration in the Kanchenjunga region.
1947 – Accompanied a Swiss expedition to the Kumaon Himalayan and climbed four virgin peaks.
1949 – Carried out exploration in Nepal with Tilman.
1950 – Went with a Doon School party in the Kumaon Himalaya.
1951 – Went with a French expedition to Nanda Devi and reached the East summit ( 7621m/25,000ft.)
1952 – Accompanied two Swiss expeditions to Everest, reaching the heights of 8600m/28,211ft. and 8097m/26,560ft respectively without oxygen, with Raymond Lambert.
1953 – Went with British Everest Expedition led by Col. John Hunt and climbed the summit along with Edmund Hillary on 29 May.

Tenzing’s decorations and awards include Padma Bhushan, President’s Gold Medal, Nepal Tara, Nepal Pratap Vardak, Iran Shah Medal, George Medal, Coronation Medal of Queen Elkizabeth II Tiger Medal of Himalayan Club, Hubbard Medal of the National Geographical Society, USSR Sports Special Medical, Frech Sports Special Medal Italian Sports Special Medal, Doctor of Law Northland College, Wisconsin ( USA ) and IMF Gold Medal. Tenzing had been Director of Field Training from June 1954 to May 1976. He was appointed Advisor in May 1976 and was the guiding spirit to the Institute till his death in May 1986.

(b) Nowang Gombu
Nowang Gombu has been an instructor at HMI since its very inception in 1954. Shri Gombu served as a Director of Field Training in May, 1976. Achievements to his credit are Saser Kangri, Nanda Devi, International ladies Cho-Oyu Expedition as an observer, Mount Everest, Nanda Devi, Rathong and others peaks. He is the first person in the world to climb Mount Everest twice. Joined the Americian Everest expedition as a member which attempted to climb the world’s highest mountain from North Side ( China ). Climbed Mt. Mackinley in the United States during 1984. He also served as Hony Instuctor in the Climbing School at Mt. Rainier, USA..
Shri Gombu was awarded Padma Bhusan, Padma Shree, Arjuna Award, Gold Medal ( Indian Mountaineering Foundation), Coronation Medal of Queen Elizabeth II, Tiger Badge ( Himalayan Club) Hubbard Medal ( National Geographical Society), Tenzing Award and Olympic Gold Medal

Dorjee Lhatoo

Dorjee Lhatoo served in the ranks of the Indian Army. He started as an instructor with Himalayan Mountaineering Institute and allied adventure activities. He was the Dy Director of Field Training of HMI. His achievements in the field of mountaineering includes, - NandaDevi, Chhomolhari, Mount Everest Mount Blanc, Matterhorn, mount Rosa, Ehuille vest. Shri Lhatoo has been awarded Silver and Gold Metal (Indian Mountaineering Foundation), Tenzing Norgay Award, Sports medal of French sports federation.

Organisation, Functions and Duties

Himalayan Mountaineering Institute is an autonomous body established on 4 Nov 1954 formed under the Societies Registration of Act XXI of 1860. The Institute is administered jointly by the Govt. of India and the Govt. of West Bengal. The Defence Minister of India is the President of the Institute and the Chief Minister of West Bengal is its Vice- President. The superintendence, direction and control of the affairs and concerns of the Institute vest in the Executive Council. The EC has as its member, representatives of the Central and the State governments, those elected by general body of the Institute and those nominated from amongst donors and other persons who are likely to promote the cause of the Institute. A representative each of the Ministry of Defence (Jt. Secy. G & Air) and Principal Secretary, Govt. of West Bengal acts as the Secretaries of the Institute.

Functions

The Institute imparts comprehensive professional training courses for those who wish to attain high proficiency in mountaineering.
Short intensive courses for civil and military personnel.
Short courses for students and teachers interested in mountaineering and allied adventure activities.
Character training through self discipline, team work, adventure, hardships and risks.
Winter Sports in mountains and water sports in rivers.

Trainees for the above courses come from various part of the country, professions and from all sections of the society including personnel from Services, ITBP, BSF, NCC, Department of Youth Services of Govt. of West Bengal and private individuals sponsored by various clubs and organizations in the country and abroad.

The powers and duties of its officers and employees : The Institute is headed by Principal . Overall powers in regard to functioning (administrative, functional and financial) of the Institute are vested with him by the Executive Council. However, Section in-charge are responsible for smooth functioning of their respective sections.
The procedure followed in the decision making process, including channels of supervision and accountability :
Major policy decision/sanctions in regard to functioning of the Institute are formulated and approved by the Executive Council. For smooth functioning of the Institute minor decisions are taken by the head of the Institute based on the noting sheet prepared by the section in-charges and submitted to the head of office. If the matter is of financial nature then Accounts Officer's recommendation is also taken before the approval of the Principal.
The norms set by it for the discharge of its functions:
Based on approval of yearly training calendar / schedule by Ministry of Defence , courses are run for the candidates applying for the same on the first-come-first-serve basis. Dedicated training staffs are detailed for conducting of courses. As per performance of the trainees during the course certificates are issued to them.
The rules, regulations, instructions, manuals and records, held by it or under its control:
1. Memorandum of Association of the Institute.
2. Minutes of Executive Council Meeting held from time to time provides basic guidelines for functioning
3. Training Manual for conduct of course
4. Besides various publications of GoI and Govt. of West Bengal (Service Rules for Civil Employees) are used.
A statement of the categories of documents that are held by it or under its control:
1. Memorandum of Association.
2. Minutes of the Executive Council Meetings.
3. Personal Files of Staff Members and Pensioners.
4. Files pertaining to Institute accounts.
5. Training files containing details of trainees and their results.
6. Various Publications of GoI & MoD/Army HQ.
The particulars of any arrangement that exists for consultation with, or representation by, the members of the public in relation to the formulation of its policy or implementation thereof : NA
A statement of the boards, councils, committees and other bodies consisting of two or more persons constituted as its part or for the purpose of its advice, and as to whether meetings of those boards, councils, committees and other bodies are open to the public, or the minutes of such meetings are accessible for public:
Famous mountaineers and eminent public personalities are enrolled as Ordinary or Life Members of the Institute. A few of them are selected to become the members of General Body which take part in the meetings of the Institute and put forward suggestion on functioning of the Institute. Minutes of such meetings are kept in the Institute.

Directory of its officers & employees

Sl No.		Rank & Name	Designation	Ph No
1.		Col Neeraj Rana	Principal	0354-2254083
2.		Maj Samuel Larintulanga	Medical Officer
3.		Shri S.K Jha	Accounts Officer
4.		Sub Maj Ashwin Kumar	Office Supdt	0354-2254087
5.		Sub H.D Pandey	Eqpt I/C
6.		Sub Mahavir Singh	Quarter Master
7.		Hav Hanumana Ram	Trg Clk
8.		Hav Kamal Nayan	Instructor
9.		Nk Inder Singh Adhikari	Instructor
10		Lnk Yamuna Prasad Peneru	Instructor
11.		Nk Narender Kumar	Nursing Asst
12		Shri Chandra Nath Das	Curator
13.		Shri Sangay Sherpa	Chief Instructor
14.		Shri Ang Tshering Sherpa	Sr. Instructor (I)
15		Shri Kusang Sherpa	Sr.Instructor (II)
16.		Shri Lakpa Norbu Sherpa	Instructor
17		Shri Roshan Gahatraj	Instructor
18		Shri Tushar K.D. Tapadar	Instructor
19		Shri Ngodup Bhutia	Instructor
20		Shri Soumendu Mordunya	Instructor
21		Shri Pawel Sharma	Instructor
22		Shri Phuchung Sherpa	Instructor
23		Shri Mahendra Pradhan	Pers.Asstt.
24		Shri Shankar Das	Head Clerk
25		Shri Milan Rai, U.D. Clerk	U.D. Clerk
26		Shri Raju Giri	Estt. Asstt
27		Md. Salim	U. D. Clerk
28		Shri Krishna Rasaily	U.D. Clerk
29		Shri Rajesh Pradhan,	Cashier
30		Shri Bejoy Rai	L.D. Clerk
31		Shri Babin Kumar Chettri	L.D. Clerk
32		Shri Dorjee Tamang	Catt. Asstt.
33		Miss. Reema Chettri	L.D. Clerk
34		Shri Binay Rajak	L.D. Clerk
35		Shri Amit Gurung	L.D. Clerk
36		Md. Rahimulla	Tailor Master
37		Md. Mullick	Tailor
38		Shri Nandlal Chauhan	Tailor
39		Shri Dawa Tshering Tamang	Driver
40		Shri Thendu Bhutia	Driver
41	Shri Dorjee Tshering Bhutia		Driver
42	Shri Pema Tshering Lepcha		Electrician
43	Shri Rajen Rai		Chowkidar
44	Shri Ang Temba		Chowkidar
45	Shri Sirman Thapa		Peon
46	Shri Sunil Darnal		Tailor
47	Shri Arun Kumar Rai		Carpenter
48	Shri Krishna Chuwan		Plumber
49	Shri Prakash Bomja		Lasker
50	Smt. Doma Lhamu		Peon
51	Shri Kundan Rai		Peon
52	Shri Pemba Lepcha		Peon
53	Shri Roshan Rai, Mali		Safaiwala
54	Shri Sibraj Balmiki		Safaiwala
55	Shri Gopal Balmiki, Safaiwala		Safaiwala
56	Shri Gyalzen Sherpa		Chowkidar
57	Shri Ram Kumar Rai		Cook
58	Shri Rikidhan Rai		Cook
59	Shri Khum Bdr. Parajuli		Cook-GH Ctr.
60	Shri Ajay Sarki		Peon
61	Shri Abdul Bhattu		Safaiwala
62	Shri Sunil Rai		Mali
63	Shri Prem Kumar Gurung		Mali
64	Shri Pasang Sherpa		Cook-Bearer
65	Shri Tshering Sherpa		Peon
66	Smt Purnima Tamang		Peon
67	Shri Tej Bahadur Darjee		Tailor
68	Shri Sujen Thapa		Bearer
69	Shri Sujan Chettri, Bearer		Bearer
70	Smt. Baby Khatoon		Safaiwala
71	Shri Shankar (Paul) Baraily		Cinema Optr.

The particulars of facilities available to citizens for obtaining information, including the working hours of a library or reading room, if maintained for public use :Museums for general public are open from 8.30 A.M. to 4.30 PM throughout the week except Thursday. The Institute Library/Reading Room is meant for its staff and trainees only.
The names, designations and other particulars of the Public Information Officers : Shri Shishir Kant Jha, Accounts Officer

Milestones of HMI

Dates	Events
04 Nov 1954	Foundation stone laid by Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru
Nov 1954	1st Basic Course for men commences
Jun 1955	Advance Course for men starts with 12 boys
Jul 1955	HMI scales 25447ft Mt. Kamet, the first Indian Ascent
Nov 1955	Institute shifted from Roy Villa to Birch Hill
Jul1956	HMI scales Sakang first Ascent
Mar 1958	HMI scales Cho Oyu first Ascent
Apr 1961	First Basic Course for women starts with 23 girls
Apr 1962	Advance Course for women starts with 07 girls and scales Frey Peak over 20,000ft.
Nov 1962	HMI scales Rathong Peak (6679 )
May1963	Nawang Gombu scales Mt. Everest
May1964	First Adventure Course for boys commences with 31 boys
May1965	Adventure course for girls commences with 20 students
May1965	Nawang Gombu becomes the first person in the world to scale Mt. Everest twice
May1976	Tenzing Norgay retires and appointed as advisor to HMI. Nawang Gombu appointed as DFT
May1984	Dorjee Lhatoo & Bachinderi Pal scale Mt. Everest under Col Dk Khullar, Principal HMI
Apr1985	HMi starts first course for Visually Handicapped persons
May1986	Tenzing Norgay breathes his last
Sep1986	First MOI course commences
Oct1991	Shri R. Venkataraman Hon’able President of India visit HMI.
May1993	HMI Instructor Nima Norbu scales Mt. Everest
May1993	Kushang Sherpa and Kunga Bhutia scale Mt.Everest
Nov 2002	17th National Sports Climbing Competition
May 2003	HMI team scales Mt. Everest from North Face
April 2006	HMI team scales Kabru North.
Sep 2008	HMI team scales Mount Gangotri
May 2009	HMI team scales Mount Makalu – The first successful ascent by an Indian Team.

Important Expeditions

Sl No	Peak	Height	Date of ascent	Leader	Name of Summiteers
1.	Kamet	7,758 m	July 6, 1955	Maj ND Jayal	Maj ND Jayal, Ang Tharkery, Da Namgyel, Ang Temba, Lakpa Dorjee
2.	Sakang	7,317m	July 25, 1956	Maj ND Jayal	Maj ND Jayal, Vija Ram, Da Namgyel, Nawang Gombu, Topke Pulzer
3.	Rathong	6,679 m	Nov16, 1962	Col BS Jaswal	4 Students, 2 Instructor of 13th Advance Course
4.	Gorichen	6,488 m	Oct 28- 31,1994	Col AK Dutt	Nima Norbu, C Norbu, Kushang Sherpa, Ms Kunga Bhutia, Hav Negi, L/Nk Byiu
5.	Gya-III	21,900 ft	1997	Col HS Chauhan	Col HS Chauhan, Ang Norbu, Ms Kunga Bhutia, Hav Shamsher Singh Hav Amar Prakash
6.	Kamet	25,447 ft	Sep 6, 1998	Col HS Chauhan	Nima Norbu, Ms Kunga Bhutia, Hav Amar Prakash
7.	Abi Gamin	24, 130 ft	Feb 26, 1999	Col HS Chauhan	Nima Norbu, Hav Amar Prakash
8.	Aconcagua	22,829 ft	May 19, 2003	Col HS Chauhan	Col Hs Chauhan, Nima Norbu, Ang Norbu, Senge Dorjee, Hav Amar Prakash, Hav Shamsher Singh, Ms Kunga Bhutia
9.	Mount Everest	29,028 ft	Apr 27,2006	Col. Vijay Singh	Kushang Sherpa & Nadre Sherpa
10.	Kabru North	24,068ft		Maj Ks Dhami	Maj Ks Dhami, Lakpa, Ngodup, Sangat Ram Thakur, Sangay Sherpa, Suraj Gurung
11.	Mount Gangotri			Col Neeraj Rana
12.	Mount Makalu			Col Neeraj Rana	Pawel Sharma, Kushang Sherpa

Previous Principals

PREVIOUS PRINCIPALS OF HMI
Major N. D. Jayal
(June 54 to March 58)
Major ND Jayal was one of the pioneers in the country to introduce mountaineering. Among his mountaineering exploits include ascents of Kamet, Sakang, Nanda Devi. He was also member of Bandar-Punch and Cho-Oyu expeditions.

Brig Gyan Singh
(March 58 to March 62)
He was the second Principal of the Institute. His contribution to Indian mountaineering has been unparalleled. He was leader of the First Indian Everest expedition in 1960. He was also the Hony. Director of National Adventure Foundation.

Colonel B.S. Jaiswal
(March 62 to Jun 66)
He had been an accomplished mountaineer of Indian Army. He was leader of the First successful expedition to Mt. Rathong in West Sikkim in 1964.

Colonel N. Kumar
(Jun 66 to Dec 70)
Among the most famous mountaineers of Indian Army, he has many successful expeditions to his credit like Trishul, Everest, Neelkanth, Nanda Devi, Chomolarhari. He has also led Indo German Indus Boat Expedition and Trishul Ski-Expedition. He was leader of the First successful Indian expedition to Kanchanjunga and was Deputy leader of First successful Indian Everest expedition 1965.

Lt. Colonel A.S. Cheema
(Jan 71 to Jan 73)
The fifth Principal of the Institute, he was member of first successful Indian Everest expedition 1965. He summitted the Everest and was the First and the only Principal to do so. The Institute indoor rock climbing wall has been named after him.

Gp. Capt. AJS Grewal
(Jan 73 to May 77)
An accomplished mountaineer, he was member of Everest 1969 and Neelkanth 1961 expedition.He is also honoured with Fellowship of Royal Geographical Society.

Gp. Capt. A.K. Chowdhury
(May 77 to Dec 81)
Gp Capt Chowdhury has been a name to reckon with. He was the member of first Indian Expedition to Nanda Devi, Indian Everest Expedition, 1960, first successful Neelkantha Expedition 1961, Second Indian Everest Expedition 1962.

Brig D.K. Khullar
(Dec 81 to Aug 85)
His mountaineering exploits include Gorichen (1962), Kokthang North (1967), Dev Ban (1968), Kinnaur Kailash (1973), Jaonli (1977), Mana(1980), Kabru Dome (1982). He was leader of 1984 Indian Everest Expedition and 1987 Indo-British Army Saser Kangri IV Expedition.

Colonel Amit Roy
(Dec 85 to May 90)
His mountaineering exploits include Bidhan Peak (1967),), Gangotri I & II (1976), Raul and Gharol (1977), Bramha (1977). He has also climbed Mt. Ngaurahoe and Ruapehu, in New Zealand.

Colonel A. K. Dutt
(May 90 to Feb 95)
He has had a long association with mountains. His climbing and exploration exploits include exploration of Neora Valley, Everest (1985), Gorichen (1994), Exploration in West Kanang Arunachal Pradesh (1994).He was the Indian delegate to Mountaineering Commission UIAA.

Col H. S. Chauhan
(Apr 95 to Sep 99)
He was the Fifteenth Principal of this Institute. His mountaineering career has been quite eventful, he has many successful expeditions to peaks which include Stok Kangri, Gulab Kangri, Mount Blanc (French Alps), Mana, Neelkanth, Kabru, Nanda Devi East Gya North, Gorichen, Kamet,Abi Gamin and Aconcagua (Argentina). He has also been to Indain Army Trans Himalayan Expedition. He is also a recipient of Tenzing Norgay National Adventute Award.

Colonel Vijay Singh
(Sep 99 to August 04)
Colonel Vijay Singh, VSM was the Twelfth Principal of this Institute.. He has served as an instructor in High Altitute Warfare School, Gulmarg. He was leader of successful HMI Mount Everest Expedition from North face in 2003 in which two climber’s summitted the mountain.

Colonel JS Dhillon, SM **
(August 04 to Jan 08)
Col JS Dhillon, SM**, the Thirteenth Principal of the Institute hails from the Regiment of ‘The Grenadiers’. A distinguished mountaineer and skier, he was the First Indian to climb the virgin Saser Kangri IV along with the British team in 1987. His name also figures in the Limca Book of World Record for leading the most challenging Indian attempt on Kamet from West face. He has participated in quite a few expeditions.

HIMALAYAN MOUNTAINEERING INSTITUTE

“May You Climb From The Peak To Peak.”

History of HMI